BEIJING

I’ve lived in Beijing for over twenty years, since my university days. Red walls and green tiles, courtyard homes tucked into hutongs, the wind at the foot of the Great Wall, the light catching the Forbidden City’s eaves—I’ve walked past these places more times than I can count, and I still turn a corner and notice something I’d never seen before. Something that makes me stop.

After all this time, I still haven’t gotten tired of this city.

Here’s where I’ll take you: which hutongs are worth slowing down for, what to prepare before the Great Wall or the Forbidden City, where to go if you want a taste of how locals actually live, and how to experience a real tea ceremony, a session of traditional Chinese medicine, or a Chinese festival up close.

I hope you fall in love with Beijing the way I have.

Best time to visit

Beijing’s weather swings wildly, so pack smart to stay comfy year-round.

• Spring (March-May): Temps range from 40-70°F, with occasional wind. Layer up with a light jacket, long-sleeve shirts, and a scarf for chilly mornings. Comfy sneakers are perfect for walking. Pack an umbrella for sudden showers.

• Summer (June-August): Hot and humid (75-90°F), with frequent rain. Choose breathable cotton T-shirts, shorts, and sandals. Bring a lightweight raincoat, sunscreen, and a hat for sun protection.

• Fall (September-October): Mild and crisp (45-65°F), ideal for sightseeing. Pack sweaters, jeans, and a medium-weight jacket. Layering works as days warm up but nights cool off. Comfy boots are a great choice.

• Winter (November-March): Cold and dry (20-35°F), with occasional snow. Bundle up with a heavy coat, thermal layers, gloves, and a hat. Insulated, non-slip boots are essential for icy sidewalks.

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